When the grid goes down, the only number that matters is how long your battery keeps the important stuff alive. Product pages love to quote big kWh figures, but they rarely translate that into "your fridge runs for X hours." This tool does.

Pick a battery capacity and an appliance below, and it estimates real runtime with losses and duty cycles included, so the answer matches what you would actually get in a blackout.

Runtime calculator

Cycling appliance: it only draws power about 33 % of the time (the motor stops once it reaches temperature).

Estimated runtime

≈ 3d 21h

Estimate for 3600 Wh usable at ~85 % (inverter losses + real depth of discharge). Real numbers vary with temperature, battery age, and appliance efficiency.

See the full sizing guide →

How the runtime is calculated

The base math is straightforward:

Runtime (hours) = Usable capacity (Wh) / Appliance draw (W)

Two honest corrections keep it from lying to you:

  • Usable capacity, not rated. You do not get 100% of a battery's rated kWh at the outlet. Between usable depth and inverter losses, plan for roughly 80 to 90% of the number on the box. The calculator uses the usable figure.
  • Duty cycle. A fridge, a well pump, and an AC compressor all cycle on and off. Their average draw over hours is far below their peak wattage, so runtime is longer than a naive "peak watts" division suggests. The calculator accounts for this on cycling loads.

For a whole set of appliances at once, add their average draws together and divide the usable capacity by that total. Essentials together often average a few hundred watts, which is why a mid-size battery can carry them through most of a day.

Rough runtime by battery size

Ballpark figures for common essential loads, losses included.

Load (average draw)1 kWh3.6 kWh10 kWh
Internet (router + modem, ~20W)~2 days~1 weekvery long
Fridge (cycling, ~60W avg)~14 h~2 days~1 week
Essentials bundle (fridge + internet + lights + phones, ~180W avg)~5 h~17 h~2 days
Window AC (small, ~500W avg part-time)~1.7 h~6 h~17 h
Well pump (intermittent, ~300W avg)~3 h~10 h~28 h

Two things jump out. Essentials alone stretch a long way, which is why most people need less battery than they fear. And anything with a compressor (AC, well pump) eats capacity fast, which is why whole-home backup gets expensive.

What the numbers usually tell people

  • 1 kWh: covers internet, phones and a fridge for a while. Fine for a short outage or a renter's essentials.
  • 3 to 5 kWh: the practical sweet spot for essentials through a full day without recharging.
  • 10 kWh and up: longer autonomy or bigger loads, ideally paired with solar so it recharges each day rather than simply draining.

If the runtime you see is shorter than you want, the honest fix is usually solar recharging rather than a much bigger battery. A battery that refills each day effectively runs indefinitely in good weather. Size it properly with the home battery sizing guide, and if you are unsure whether to go fixed or portable, read home battery vs portable power station.

Frequently asked questions

How long will a home battery power my house during an outage?
It depends on the battery size and your loads. Roughly, a 3.6 kWh battery runs an essentials bundle (fridge, internet, lights, phones) for most of a day. Add AC or a well pump and it drops sharply because compressors draw a lot.
How long will a 10kWh battery last in a blackout?
For essentials averaging a couple hundred watts, roughly a day or two. For a fridge alone, about a week. For heavy loads like AC, far less. Use the calculator with your specific appliances for a realistic figure.
Why is my real runtime shorter than the battery's kWh suggests?
You lose some capacity to usable depth and inverter losses, so plan for about 80 to 90% of the rated kWh. The calculator already uses usable capacity, so its estimates match reality more closely.
Should I buy a bigger battery or add solar for longer outages?
For multi-day outages, adding solar usually beats buying more battery. Solar recharges the battery each day, so a modest battery plus panels can outlast a much larger battery with no way to refill.